Can You Use Rubbing Alcohol To Clean A Yoyo Bearing
kennywally, thank you for posting to the Microsoft forums.
Unfortunately opposite engineering of difficult drives is outside the scope of support that this forum can offer you. I would recommend contacting the drive manufacturer for further details.
The only knowledge I can give you is that virtually data recovery centers actually keep identical drives/parts on-hand to attempt recovery. Basically they keep all the actress parts then that when this type of thing happens they simply clean off the platter and replace it into an identical drive and effort recovery. As a domicile technician the main obstacle you may see during this procedure will be the cleansing of the actual platter/s. I am unsure of what chemicals they use merely I practice know it does not affect the magnetism stored on the platter, they also clean it to the betoken where it has a mirror-similar finish once again every bit water spots can also affect data recovery. So in short information recovery on a recently submerged hard drive will be very difficult especially for environments that do not possess the ability to reduce static and grit.
With that being said if y'all choose to attempt to find an identical drive and swap parts out you certainly void all warranties of both units, and 10 times out of 10 the manufacturer will not cover this under their warranty, nor will Microsoft.
Please let usa know if we can be of further assistance with any Windows Vista related bug.
regards,
Aaron Barth
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I would suggest Mineral Oil as many 'fish tank' computer cases apply it every bit a cooling/case design method. Basically, the reckoner parts (motherboard, harddrives, psu) are all submerged in Mineral Oil to give the computer a prissy appearance.
Yous could then utilize a soft cloth (like the kind designed for brittle LCD screens) and endeavour to gently interruption apart the muck. It may or may not work but its a shot.
Rubbing Booze works for cleaning motherboards so I would presume harddrives as well but I suggest trying the higher up starting time.
Let us know what happens. I tried searching the net for possible methods and came up with zip.
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Thank you Aaron.
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I never idea of mineral oil.[ mineral oil is also used to remove scuffs or grease pencil on photographs ]
And yeah, a search came up with nothing.
I was giving it more idea, and the eyes place I worked for had sensitive multcoated lenses that would get grit n dirt from the field, so they'd
showtime accident any loose clay off, and so hydrate the lens with an optical cleaning solution to bladder the dirt so it won't scratch the surface,
then slowly remove the dirt with alcohol northward q tips, and reapply as necessary, and so up it to acetone. I'd say the mirror surfaces were fairly close
to how make clean a platter must be like in order to do it'south job. It merely took me a while to resurrect the 20 twelvemonth old memories....
I'thou gonna effort information technology on the external first, since it is already toasted I have nothing to lose and everything to gain!
If I luck out and get it to spin and coughing up a cpl G of data, all the better. Merely truthfully I suspect grime got ground into the platter
and at that place should be a scratched up surface from that so I don't expect much,
merely if I can get it to light up and spin, I'thousand halfway abode!!!!
At to the lowest degree information technology is worth a shot.
This will have me a while to gather materials, I'll post the results
kw
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Definitely let u.s. know! This would probably exist the first open up-to-the-public physical data recovery. I myself would like to know if those materials work.
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Kennywally, give thanks you for posting back to the Microsoft forums.
I would advise against using mineral oil every bit you are simply trying to make sure there are no h2o spots on the platter, you are not trying to polish it or lubricate it. Scratches should not be an issue unless you overheard a clicking or banging noise coming from within the bulldoze when you attempted using it. I have seen many a drive that has been flooded with water and usually they did not show signs of physical harm equally the drive returns to what is called the "Landing Zone" (edge of platter) when the bulldoze encounters issues.
Mineral oil if used would and then need to be cleaned off as it is oil based, my suggestion is to start get-go with the most unabrasive solvents. Booze, and maybe Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone, merely kickoff with alcohol first equally it is the nigh unabrasive and volition not leave residue behind on the platter. Continue in mind the lens spray you mention will commonly exist a mix of isopropyl booze (not to be dislocated with isoproponol) which is two parts, alcohol and oil used to both clean and fill up tiny scratches in glass lenses. Which in turn nonetheless leaves rest behind, as do all other solvents except rubbing booze and MEK, MEK is pretty strong however we used to utilise it to remove the protective motion picture from computer motherboards prior to repair. Hence my recommendation to first start with alcohol.
Use a lense cloth, or microfiber keeping them slightly damp to avoid static, merely not too damp to where they will cause streaking. (alcohol & MEK will non streak)
At present assuming you do clean the platter correctly y'all volition still have the consequence of other parts being damaged from water. Those of note would be the actuator arm, the electric motor, and the actuator solenoid. The electrical motor that spins the platter and the solenoid are both comprised of electric coils wound around a set of magnets held in place by floating bearings secured by tiny circlips. Yous would have to clean both the electric motor and the solenoid out completely, equally water can wash away the lithium based grease on the insides causing the "floating" characteristics of the bearings to disappear, once this happens tolerances change and drive characteristics do equally well. And while it is true that the difficult drive can compensate for pocket-sized tolerances it cannot compensate for large differences due to a platter spinning differently. Equally for the actuator arm if it touched the platter then it may have damaged itself and the platter. In a perfect situation the actuator arm never actually touches the platter, information technology merely floats above it.
This is why I recommend only cleaning the platter and finding an identical drive to identify the platter in as overhauling this drive will exist a serious undertaking.
Skilful luck with this process
regards,
Aaron Barth
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AAron,
I wasn't sure how to go nigh using the mineral oil other than to endeavor to smoothen upwards the surface if it had gotten
dulled from the cleaning. I knew it would take to exist removed, but hadn't really gotten that far still with
figuring out the process.
I have virtually materials to take it autonomously and to have a look to inspect the surface for evidence that the seal was in fact compromised
and the read write device did in fact get clogged upwardly. I'll post a verification of that asap...24-48 hrs I hope.
kw
p.s.
I do accept a spare 40g drive that I took out of my sony, so that could be the ticket as far as avoiding all the drama with the electrical stop of it.
I'm just hoping they are compatible. Merely I can always troll all-time buy computer repair and practice some begging.
Am I dreaming to call back a 40g pocket-sized external is a unmarried platter? [ I may observe out today ]
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Kennywally, thank you for posting dorsum to the Microsoft forums.
10 times out of ten, the outer seal that lines the top cover of the hard drive is never the entry point for water to enter the bulldoze. It is always the sabbatical pigsty.
If you have a 40GB that has the aforementioned concrete likeness as the drive in question then you could probably use that and replace both the platter and the circuit board on the underside. I myself have saved a couple drives which take had faulty excursion boards on the bottoms. I learned that no impairment came from using the wrong board with a different sized platter, though the bulldoze did not operate correctly. (and Windows did not fifty-fifty try to mount it)
Do not worry about alcohol dulling the surface, that volition not happen, too nigh consumer rubbing alcohol is really lxx% alcohol and 30% water. The reason why I advise against mineral oil is because you want to NOT handle the platter as much equally possible, shining information technology then cleaning it and so buffing it might compromise things. Start with the simplest near non-volatile approach showtime.
ane.Detach
2.Clean platter with alcohol, make sure information technology looks pretty
3.Supplant in drive and reassemble
4.Test
And then proceed with further steps if previous steps failed.
Hard drive manufacturers usually make their products in such a universal mode that housings, excursion lath pivot-outs, and rotation speed normally remain the same beyond different drives. (same manufacturer of course) Of form platter densities change and and then do the circuit boards. Once you get information technology open I am sure you will be disappointed with how much water actually got in at that place, equally information technology wont be much at all, (more often than not condensation and tiny droplets) just heed my advise and showtime with the most unabrasive solvents first and remove those h2o spots. If this becomes an ongoing project for you lot and you need to store the platter shop it back in the bulldoze itself. (Some data recovery places shop customer platters in a lead-composite based instance.)
And no your non dreaming, a lot of the Maxtor 40GB slim hard drives had single platters.
Expert luck sir.
regards,
Aaron Barth
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Seagate, in their space wisdom, designed rounded corner v indicate spiral heads!!!! wtf?
Used an easy out to remove them, but upon opening the instance, which is molded metal
that holds a soft rubber cage for the hdd to bladder in, that was a dainty chore, hated the screws tho.
Now the weird part, there'south admittedly NO MUCK RESIDUE whatsoever inside the case!!!
It doesn't announced to take gotten soaked as I suspected, merely no matter, the HDD for my desktop
was definitely under sewage h2o for most an hour.
But anyways, this bulldoze just wont spin! The was some muck on the connector that was plugged into the
desktop and so I kinda assumed it got soaked. The thing did work for a few minutes when I first plugged information technology
in but and so it made some noises, then the blue light went out and the system information technology was plugged into no longer seen the drive.
So either fashion, something happened to information technology...I'm considering other options here since muck does not announced to be the culprit
there's no sense going in to test my methods on this one. For those who are curious, I think I'll pull it from it'due south current adapter,
and connect information technology to a different adapter, maybe that'll exercise it.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
So I'm gonna focus on the one I KNOW for sure was under water and in muck, cuz I pulled it out and the casing was covered in muck
and it is cleaned off now.
~~~~~~~~~~~~
New TARGET HDD is a sata SEAGATE 320g
Ok, merely 2 min ago I got the top off the HDD and guess what?! NO MUCK !!!!
But there was dust!!! I call back the grit came from the instance screws that had lots of white dusty corrosion on them all
except the one under the label, information technology was pristine.
So I'g non sure if I should pull the disc cuz there are two, or just get the dust off the best I can
reassemble and plug information technology into another working PC and see if I can extract the data.
If it's a go, data extraction is first, and so curiosity about how long this mother will continue to spin,
provided it spins at all, if not, then a case change, and for this big i I have no spare instance,
then I'll take to go begging. Only first things first. Remove dust, reassemble, exam unit, then get from there...
I don't know where to look for the breather hole so I didn't see it and plainly it was not breached!!!!
I won't get to this adjacent step tonight.
I'm gonna use 91% alcohol with q-tips to remove the dust, merely I need to configure a clean box out of
rubbermaid storage container , with holes cut for easily and gloves taped to container. It'll take a little time to practise all that.
I'll use those purple surgery gloves, and tape them to kitchen gloves with the mitt office cut out and replaced with the surgical gloves
cuz I want to be able to feel how much pressure I'm applying to the platter.
later
kw
update on 40g, swapped adapters and no get. The unit was heating upwardly , information technology starting to become pretty warm I but pulled the cord,
it must need some other case, probably electronics got cooked, the desktop and external were both plugged in and on, when the back up striking...
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Kennywally, give thanks you for posting dorsum to the Microsoft forums.
I told you, you would be disappointed by what y'all would run into in the actual hard drive. If there is no visible damage from h2o/h2o spots on the platter then the platter is okay, and should be handled every bit least as possible.
Every bit for the dust, only endeavor to accident it off the platter, if the grit seems stuck to the platter and then yous may attempt cleaning with alcohol. The same rules apply to cleaning a platter every bit they do when cleaning a CD, straight lines from middle to edge of disc.
It looks similar its time to start swapping parts around, the main parts to tbe concerned about are: platter, circuit board, rest of unit of measurement. Yous can mix and match parts based on work needed and ease of interchangeability. Meaning if the inside looked okay and you lot have an identical bulldoze then leave the platter in-place and commencement by swapping the circuit lath, if it however fails and then remove the platter and so transfer platter and known-skilful excursion lath back to known-good instance/unit of measurement. I cannot stress how of import it is to start with the easiest almost non-invasive of things commencement and and so work your mode to the more than involved processes.
I should as well tell you I have run a hard drive before without its tiptop embrace just so I could extract data from a customers PC. Her difficult drive showed signs of the "click-of-death" and would get worse every bit the unit of measurement heated up. An old trick is to identify the bulldoze in the freezer and then attempt data recovery. I froze her hard bulldoze then quickly removed the top cover every bit I loosened the screws the day prior. I then recovered all of her data, though it wasnt much just ~20GB.
For the 40GB what do you lot mean by adapters? Are you refering to the excursion lath? The external enclosure?
Good luck.
Aaron Barth
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Source: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/hdd-got-wet-what-materials-can-i-use-to-clean-disc/4888e787-554f-4505-9d6a-930dae86c502
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